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JB Weld

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Old 03-17-2019, 04:11 AM
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iflircaircraft
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Default JB Weld

I'm installing robart struts to electric retracts (90 degree rotating)..would JB Weld work or is it best to drill and tap to use grub screws?

Tom
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by iflircaircraft View Post
I'm installing robart struts to electric retracts (90 degree rotating)..would JB Weld work or is it best to drill and tap to use grub screws?

Tom
JB Weld might work at first. But eventually it would give way. How soon is anyone's guess! Drill and tap is the best. And maybe back that up with some JB Weld?
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:49 AM
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The instructions for Robostrut installation https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/03...37206904165106
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:11 AM
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Throw that JB weld as far away from your workshop as possible.

carl
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:25 PM
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I'll go the old school way of drilling and tapping the struts and filing a flat into the connecting pin of the retracts. I was thinking JB Weld might hold.

Thanks

PS:Funny that Robart recommends using JB Weld or silver solder to keep the bushing in place.
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by carlgrover View Post
Throw that JB weld as far away from your workshop as possible.

carl
JB Weld is just a tool and like everything, one needs the right tool for the job AND one needs to know how to properly use said tool.

That said I find I prefer the Marine version of JB. It takes longer to cure, flows better and thereby fills voids better. And it seems to me to machine, drill, etc a bit better. But it is NOT for general construction as far as our models go.
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Old 03-19-2019, 01:23 PM
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If you intend to install the bushing as pictured, JB weld will work rather well. Just scuff/clean the bonding areas well. I like to cure JB at around 100 to 110 degrees. It not only speeds the cure to fully cured in 2 hours but results in a stronger bond. I agree that drilling and tapping would be the way to go to secure to the retract pin. The instructions weren’t very clear but I imagine you would be drilling through the strut and bushing?
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Old 03-19-2019, 04:26 PM
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Why would anyone bother with JB Weld use Stay Bright low temp silver solder and solder the bushing in then drill and tap
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
If you intend to install the bushing as pictured, JB weld will work rather well. Just scuff/clean the bonding areas well. I like to cure JB at around 100 to 110 degrees. It not only speeds the cure to fully cured in 2 hours but results in a stronger bond. I agree that drilling and tapping would be the way to go to secure to the retract pin. The instructions weren’t very clear but I imagine you would be drilling through the strut and bushing?
Speedracerantrixie:
Yes, I drilled through the strut and bushing front to back all the way through (as straight as possible with a hand held drill). Tapped the holes and filed a flat on the pin.
I opted to have a single set screw on the front and back vs Robart's recommended two on one side.
They seem to be very solid and the strut will not rotate on the pin.
Once I put the loctite on the set screws I don't expect any problems.

Tom


PS: The set screw is just long enough to keep the strut from rotating on the bushing.
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:44 PM
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I have a suspicion that unless the bushing is secured to the strut the hole in the strut will end up being elongated.

Dennis, I would go with JB Weld as opposed to soldering so the paint on the struts isn’t damaged. I used JB on the upper wing attachments when building my 1/4 scale Reed Falcon. No issues now for 3 years.
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Old 03-20-2019, 06:21 AM
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To everyone their own JB Weld is nothing but epoxy with some sort of filler Stay Bright is permanent paint is cheap.

If I understand correctly the op used opposing grub screws. If he did that means the grub screws are acting against each other better to have them at 90 degrees to each other. Each grub screw will force the wire against a different part of the bushing wall.

Dennis

Last edited by Propworn; 03-20-2019 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:06 AM
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Dennis, I agree 100% with the placement of the grub screws. He now has very little contact area.

We could go on for pages about epoxy vs soldering. IMO both would work just fine, epoxy requires less skill. Not everyone has the equipment or nessesary skill to do a proper solder joint.
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