whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

Im about to cover the 90 before I do anyone know anything I need to watch out for?[sm=confused.gif]

Rodney

On this size plane, I have found that the fabric covering are much better than the films. My favorite is any of the tex's, i.e. Solartex, Worldtex, Colortex etc. It is much stronger, goes around compound curves and adheres better than the popular Monocote or similar films. You also get better coverage per sheet as they are a full meter long and wider than the film sheets.

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

yes i love working with solartex also but i have lots of flim i need to use and with the fabric you have to clearcoat or paint to seal

JCOKEEFE

My Feedback: (2)

[8D]How did you like the kit? I have the kit, but have not started building yet.
Thanks.

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I have the kit and it's my winter build. Have a nice new TT 91 fs for it. Mine will have ails. top and bottom and a custom engine cowel, as yet to be determined altho I like the radial look on something like this? The cowel that comes with the kit sicks............
I have flown this plane w/o top ails. and it's very slow to respond, anyone have any ideas? I don't expect a barn-burner but quicker responses would be nice.

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

instructions arn't great the plane is a quick build. 3 hours and the top wingis nearly done. a tip I got at the field was to put 1-2 degreas of negative incidence into the top wing outherwise it dosentwant to land. He also said with top ailerons it will stunt with the best of them. make sure to seperate and lable your wood. on the forward cabanes get them alined properly be fore you solder. Im powering with a magum 120

bgerth

My Feedback: (2)

I've had my eyes on this kit for a long time. Always wanted a warbird in this size, what plane could this kit resemble(sort of scale). I haven't fooled much with scale and don't know all the vintage aircraft out there, just like to hear some ideas of what this could be painted up as.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

You got good advice on the top wing incedence. Mine is powered with a saito 120, has ailerons on top wing also. Absolutely great match for slow aerobatics. Rolls incredably fast while flying very slow. One of my most fun planes. Another piece of advice you need to be aware of, with the stab set at 0deg incedence you will probably need about 1/4" down elevator trim to fly straight and level. Someday I'll build another one and put about 1 1/2 to 2 degrees of positive incedence, to match the upper wing. That should help line up the elevator to stab at neutral. I'm a little anal about things like that. But all in all its not really a problem. Mine lands at a slow crawl just like a trainer. Originally bought it unfinished at a swapmeet and finished it. Came out heavy at 14lbs flying weight. Still flys great. I think I can build another much lighter. The balance point I use is the leading edge of the bottom wing measured on the top wing. The best thing about flying it, pointing into about a 10mph wind and letting it hang there like a kite. When I'm landing I can hear cat calls from the pit about "You're gonna STALL". I just laugh. You'll love this plane.
Edwin

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

dude your the one who told me.
bgerth: i sugest you just hit a lot of sites and see what you like .

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Just noticed where you from. Who are you?
Edwin

Rodney

I have built three of these. Powered the first two with a 1.20 4 stroke and the last with a 72CC Quadra. Of course I moved the firewall back a bit on this last one and beefed up the landing gear as the engine alone weighs 7 pounds. All fly great and all required that the upper wing be a negative 1.5 degrees relative to the lower wing. The lower wing and stab were at zero degrees and all three engines needed about 3 degrees right thrust and 5 degrees down thrust. I also have built and flown two of the 40 sized Phaetons and they all liked the same setup for wing incidence and engine thrust settings.

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

lazy bee death by cake. gas engine no spark. red v tail tuned pipe. jet fly conission stand. county road2243 H.E.B. smelly fish you bigsandy me cr290.
[&:]

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

do the 120"s have enough power for a good clime rate? and did you try one with out the right thrust?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

OHHHHHH! Go for it. If the wind ever dies down. Mine doesnt have much of a climb rate with the 120. Strictly a slow flyer on the wing.
Edwin

Rodney

A 120 in very adequate unless you overbuild. You should be able to hold it to around 12/13 pounds for a 120.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

When you built yours, did the plans have you sheet the aft end of the fuse all the way back to the tail? I bought mine 80% built at a swapmeet and the fuse was totally sheeted. I bought the plans from busa and noticed it doesnt look like they call for full sheeting. At 14lbs mine lumbers along but is still very menuverable with 4 ailerons. My next one will definately be open frame on the aft end of the fuse.

Engine setup is 0-0 on mine.

Edwin

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

no sheeting on fuselage and like i said the instruction book needs an up grade. i'm going to add athin strip to the outside bottom longarons to make the covering look right. i had a superskybolt that some one had givenaway because it kept noseing over (they put the landing gear on backwards) it was very heavy and the 120 pulled it fine. the phaeton is comming out very light.

Charlie P.

Only the upper deck. I'm trying to keep mine light (and jambing a G-26 on the nose). It's a stalled project of bashing the kit into a Curtiss F6C-4 Navy fighter from the late 20's. Building season is here again, though.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I like it. Awhile back I sold my P90 to someone that recovered it. I bought it back later on cause I really missed flying it. So now I'm gonna strip it down and recover it like it was before. Solartex and rustoleum paint.
Edwin

Charlie P.

That's my plan. I've got aluminum and yellow Solartex and a ring cowl from Fiberglass Specialties that will be Rustoleum red. The version of the Curtiss that caught my eye had a radial (easier to disguise the Zenoah in a cowl). It's the most famous plane you never heard of. First airframe to perform the outside loop (the Army P-1 in-line version), first airborne .50 cal machine gun, first of the "Hawk" series, first carrier based fighter.

I figure I'll use a matte clearcoat to seal the Solartex from the grime that sneaks into the weave.

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

an the top ails did any one cut them out of the wing or just add them on to the trailing edge? it seems like adding them on would change the cg.[:-]

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Added to the trailing edge.
Edwin

MJM

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Rodney. I have a OS FS 120S III and (for me) it has just the right amount of power. My plane came in at 10 pounds (on one scale) and 11 pounds (on another
scale). I maiden flew the plane today and with the engine running very rich I could go verticle for about 200 feet straight up. However, it slowed down to a crawl for landing.

Here's a video of the maiden. Nothing exciting, but then again, that's what it's suppose to be like on the maiden flight

http://media.putfile.com/Mike-Miller...-Maiden-Flight

whatwind

My Feedback: (1)

mjm didn't see any top ails how was the roll rate? like the striping around the cockpit.

MJM

My Feedback: (1)

whatwind - Your correct. No ailerons on the top wing. I cannot compare the roll rate to a Phaeton 90 with four ailerons as I haven't seen another Phaeton fly. In the maiden flight video, on the downwind leg, just after take off, I did a roll with full aileron deflection. I hope that give you some idea. Another guy at the field has a 30% Toc Extra 260 and I'd say he can do two rolls to my one. Then again, his plane was designed for aerobatics. The Phaeton was designed for sport flying. However, the Phaeton sure does look great doing loops, hammerheads and slow rolls. Plus, the size of it makes it look really cool on take-offs and landings. I can't wait to get out and fly again Thanksgiving morning!!

I had some extra change in my pocket. I was at a hobby store. There just happened to be some cockpit tubing staring at me from the display stand. That's how I got the tubing for the cockpit. I've tried making it from fuel tubing and painting it black on other airplanes. The black paint usually comes off. Next model, I may try some tubing from an auto parts store. There maybe some vacume hoses (which are hollow and small in diameter) which would do the trick.

MJM