Dave Wilshere

David

Looks like you have the later unit, so yes you can Y off the radio packs.
I understand there is not space for the carbon clamp. The hatch with wood spacer is what is really holding it down, the silicon is a secondary fix/isolator.

You don't have to remove the former, just have the pipe as high as possible in the fuselage at the rear.
Hopefully our first one will be finished soon and I will post pictures.

Dave

DavidQ

My Feedback: (12)

Hi Dave
There is enough room for the carbon clamp. It is okay to use the carbon clamp to hold the servo instead of spacer and silicon right?
David Quy

DavidQ

My Feedback: (12)

Dave
Can you post the pictures of what you guys have done so far?
David Quy

Dave Wilshere

If there is space then its good to use it.

I don't have the model, its being finished by an expert builder remotely as the customer did not have time or expertise and i'm tied up with other projects.
I do wish I had just got on and finished it, it should be less than a week even with a painted internal finish.

Dave

DavidQ

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks Dave
David Quy

authomassen

I've been looking for videos of the joker flying, but no joy. Anoyone have a video or link to a flying video?

dccatl

My Feedback: (1)

Best I could find was this on facebook from CARF-Model's page (it's not very good), titled "CARF-MODELS @ JetPower DAY 2":

Joker Video


Joker taxis out at about 7:30

Dave Wilshere

We will do one in the next couple of weeks.
Someone must have done a video of Frank's flights at JP 2017

Dave

acrored

Hi all, i want to share some pictures of turbine and pipe installation for this joker that i am building for a customer, hope they help, take care.

DepecheMode101

My Feedback: (1)

did you use CA to glue in the plywood around the pipe?

dccatl

My Feedback: (1)

Very helpful, but I do have a coupe of questions if you don't mind. I notice you mounted the turbine offset vertically (slightly lower) in the fuselage than the factory mounting rails using the plywood shims. Since the thrust tube is contacting the top of the fuselage I'm assuming this offset is necessary to align the center of the turbine exhaust with the center of the thrust tube, correct? I also notice three machine screws inside the pipe, what to they attach to? Finally, what turbine is that, a K85? Any other pics you can provide of any noteworthy steps during the build would be appreciated, and hopefully a flight video if your customer is so inclined.

Thanks again,
David

acrored

Yes, but reinforced with a layer of fiberglass on both sides of the plywoods.

acrored

You have a sharp eye amigo, the turbine was offset like 6 mm(1/4 of an inch) so i have to make those plywoods spacers, about the three machine screws, they are there to hold the aluminium outside wall of the thrust tube, factory built by Carf i asume and Yes, it is a KT-85 but i had to mounted that way because of the two wires coming out of the turbine, i will post more pictures later, if you have another cuestion just do it, take care.

skymaster68

My Feedback: (4)

Looking great as you allways do Acrored !!!
Maiden tomorrow??? ;-)

DavidQ

My Feedback: (12)

I can't get my retracts to work. It says break input is 7.4 volt to 8.4 volts, does the same apply to the retracts or just 6 volts for the retracts?

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

Retracts and brakes should operate on a 2S lipo.
do you have three retracts plugged in?

DavidQ

My Feedback: (12)

Yes everything plugged in. I think I may have a defective unit!

dccatl

My Feedback: (1)

This is disconcerting, I found this video on you tube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YFT2H-M6qc&t=149s

The title translates to "dead switchboard" carf models joker, and while I don't speak Spanish, I gather from the video that the brakes work but not the retracts. I also had a friend burn up a set of JP retracts on a mini Avanti by plugging them into a 2S LiFe, the controller ended up being fine but the motors in the retracts themselves were bad. I'm curious to hear if anyone with this version of the controller has their retracts and brakes working, and if so, how exactly they're powered. I suspect that the brakes only are rated at 7.4-8.4v, while the gear itself is 6v max. I haven't received my Joker yet and since I'm planning to run HV servos and 2S LiPo's so I think I'll test the retracts first on a 4.8V NiMh pack and if they work I'll run the retracts at a 5.9v via a BEC or regulator.

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

The retract set in my Mini Avanti is regulated to 5.9 volts using one of these: https://www.horizonhobby.com/vr5203-...ator-spmvr5203

The new set of JP Hobby retracts that I installed in an L39 is rated to 8.4 volts and is etched onto the case.
Hopefully the Joker gear is rated for a 2S Lipo

scaryxxl

Hi there
I am the owner of this video .
I explain what happened, the main control unit that comes with my joker kit was bad from factory, I went to jetsmunt factory to check why the control unit doesn't work and it seams the 2s lipo works fine for barkes but to power the retracts the + cable was comunicated with the + of the receiver so the unit was burned. so please check it carefully the + cable is not comunicated.
also I purchuase a Xicoy main retracts system until carf models send me a new one.
the video was done to show it to carf models.

DavidQ

My Feedback: (12)

I too went to Fan Jet USA and ordered the break control and retract box as well as a voltage regulator from Horizon Hobby, hope everything works this time. At least yours is half way working, none of my indicator lights came on with the power plugged in. Ray Labonte is contacting COMP ARF on the issue today. I hope my retracts units are okay though!!!

VK96

Can someone share their AUW(dry/ UAT full). Seems like a big plane for such a low advertised weight. Thx!

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

My experience on the JP controller is it uses the receiver for power on the retracts and the power port is only for the brakes. I have found a 2 cell life works fine on the brakes. I am very against using lipos so this was a good thing.

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

David if you have a battery you can simply plug it into the retract to make it cycle, if it does not move reverse the connection. If it will not move with the battery connected either way i'd say the motor is shot, but these unit are really robust.
If you are concerned about overvoltage use a regulator or lower voltage source. All sensing is done in the control box so DON'T over drive the the retract.

Dave Wilshere

Why did you mount your pump so close to the turbine? 1/Fuel metering is more critical and 2/ its a pump...does not like sucking fuel from the tank.

Retract power can be from the Rx output or Y off the Sensor switch output.