Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Jets
Reload this Page >

Mibo A-10 Gen 6

Community
Search
Notices
RC Jets Discuss RC jets in this forum plus rc turbines and ducted fan power systems

Mibo A-10 Gen 6

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-14-2020, 06:50 AM
  #226  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Thanks for all the info gents! Any info on servo arm sizes for the flaps?
Old 04-14-2020, 06:16 PM
  #227  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default




So after careful measuring, it seems that 1.5 inch servo arms should suffice.

Oh and look at these scale doors!

Last edited by ravill; 04-15-2020 at 06:01 AM.
Old 04-14-2020, 07:00 PM
  #228  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Just went thru the flap servo arm issue myself. It’s almost 2 inches.



Old 04-14-2020, 09:49 PM
  #229  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Thanks Edgar!

I will have to drive the servos over 90 degrees to get the throw needed for flap deflection.

When I measured 2 inches, it was just a touch too long (like you also saw), so I went with 1.5 inches.

It was also on my radar to make my own servo arms.

Last edited by ravill; 04-15-2020 at 06:02 AM.
Old 04-15-2020, 03:30 AM
  #230  
CraigG
My Feedback: (40)
 
CraigG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sautee Nacoochee, GA
Posts: 2,092
Received 35 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ravill





Oh and look at these scale doors!
Good looking gear! The geometry on those doors is amazing and all without additional cylinders/servos or sequencing.
Old 04-15-2020, 02:19 PM
  #231  
jetnuno
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Lisbon, PORTUGAL
Posts: 1,145
Received 15 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ravill
Thanks for all the info gents! Any info on servo arm sizes for the flaps?
Hi Rav

All my servo arms have arround 1"


Old 04-15-2020, 08:02 PM
  #232  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Both planes look great!
Old 04-15-2020, 08:04 PM
  #233  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default



Some progress on mine...
Old 04-15-2020, 09:15 PM
  #234  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Nuno, are you sure you are using 1” servo arms in your flaps? And getting full travel!

Edgar that wing looks clean primo!
Old 04-16-2020, 12:35 AM
  #235  
jimibar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by AKB
Hey Rav
If you pm me your email address I can probably send you some pictures that Bogo sent me when I had the same questions.

Regards AKB
I'll send you a PM in the next few minutes, I've got a bunch of details that I have no idea where they should be
I'm back working on my A10 after more than 3 years without doing anything.
A friend did the basic paint job and kept the plane in his garage for 3 years ... I was busy with other things but now plane is back in my workshop !

Still some issues to fix on the paint, waiting for the rub on decals from Tailormadedecals and then weathering !

Ravill, I'm in the exact same situation as you, I never did a paint job and this is my first one where I really do have to use a paintgun and an airbrush and I'm having fun !
For your weathering, I can recommand looking some videos on youtube of guys showing weathering techniques on plastic models, it is really instructive ! Plasmo, Panzermeister are good names.
I'm also back on printing ordnance !
I'll post pictures later on but I'm happy to be back working on that plane.



Old 04-16-2020, 03:58 AM
  #236  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ravill
Edgar that wing looks clean primo!
Too clean! Needs some weathering, but that comes after...
Old 04-16-2020, 04:50 AM
  #237  
jimibar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Guys, any ideas where these details are going ?
My A10 is a Gen 5.5 for information.



Ravill, I was in the same situation as you, when I picked up my plane it was primed in gray but the plane was not frosted after the fiber pieces got removed from the molds so the paint is not holding correctly on the plane. Unfortunately, my friend did the painting with the weak undercoat so everytime I'm moving my plane, I create chipping parts ..
I hope that it will be better after a coat of varnish ?
Old 04-16-2020, 06:13 AM
  #238  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jimibar
Guys, any ideas where these details are going ?
My A10 is a Gen 5.5 for information.



Ravill, I was in the same situation as you, when I picked up my plane it was primed in gray but the plane was not frosted after the fiber pieces got removed from the molds so the paint is not holding correctly on the plane. Unfortunately, my friend did the painting with the weak undercoat so everytime I'm moving my plane, I create chipping parts ..
I hope that it will be better after a coat of varnish ?

Hi Jimbar!

Welcome to the Hog builds! I remember reading the thread on the 5.5 and wondered what happened to everyone building?!

I can help you with a few of those pieces. Buuuutttt, if you are having problems with paint sticking, then THAT might be where you need to start.

To recap what I had to do:

1. Strip the WHOLE airplane with paint gun cleaner. (messy, but VERY effective at taking paint off without loosing small scale details)

2. Sand the WHOLE airplane with 600 grit sand paper.

3. Apply EPOXY PRIMER as a sealer. Using it as a sealer, lessens how much primer is sprayed on the jet, which can obscure some of the small scale details.

A few notes on EPOXY PRIMER. A: Its an epoxy, it WILL harden, so wash your gun after using it. Your gun will turn into a paper weight if not. B: Because it's an EPOXY, it will stick to almost anything. So this is THE property you are trying to maximize.

Don't forget you will need to use this epoxy primer on all the little parts too. I had to redo my landing gear because I forgot to use my EPOXY primer, I used a regular primer which was a mistake.

The other "tips" I can think of for painting:

Only start painting parts which you can finish (primer, paint, clear) all in one sitting. If you take longer than 24 hours between any of those steps, you have to "scratch" your primer or paint (depending on where you stopped) with a scotchbrite pad (or equivalent) so that the next paint step will stick. If you paint all 3 steps back to back to back, you increase the adhesion.

Wear nitrile gloves when handling the airplane until you apply clear.

I didn't get convinced that I NEEDED to do a gloss clear before applying decals (wet transfer) or paint masks, but that's what I did.

Runs where the most likely for me with clear, so I had to practice alot and still got a few runs.

Matte clear is AMAZING!

Regarding the scale 3D printed pieces:

The small white piece towards the bottom of your pic next to the two long grey pieces with rivet detail, fits on the front gear strut.

The oval looking swept back pipe thingy, goes on the bottom rear of the jet and is a fuel dump pipe.

What looks like a fuel filler, if you have two, I'd say they go on the wing, if you only have one, it may go either on the Right front of the jet (just above the gun) or on the top of the get, just behind the hatch.

The other parts, I am not sure about.

I'll try to post some pics in a bit for you.

Last edited by ravill; 04-16-2020 at 05:23 PM.
Old 04-16-2020, 09:36 AM
  #239  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Dont know about the pieces, will try to find out with my builder
Old 04-16-2020, 09:38 AM
  #240  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Anyone uses a wing bag to transport them?
The wingtips and bomb stabilizers supports in the pylons look quite fragile...
Old 04-16-2020, 11:33 AM
  #241  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

My transport should keep pylons and store stabilizers free.

Jim, here is a pic of the small white piece


Old 04-16-2020, 11:39 AM
  #242  
jimibar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ravill
Hi Jimbar!

Welcome to the Hog builds! I remember reading the thread on the 5.5 and wondered what happened to everyone building?!

I can help you with a few of those pieces. Buuuutttt, if you are having problems with paint sticking, then THAT might be where you need to start.

To recap what I had to do:

1. Strip the WHOLE airplane with paint gun cleaner. (messy, but VERY effective at taking paint off without loosing small scale details)

2. Sand the WHOLE airplane with 600 grit sand paper.

3. Apply EPOXY PRIMER as a sealer. Using it as a sealer, lessens how much primer is sprayed on the jet, which can obscure some of the small scale details.

A few notes on EPOXY PRIMER. A: Its an epoxy, it WILL harden, so wash your gun after using it. Your gun will turn into a paper weight if not. B: Because it's an EPOXY, it will stick to almost anything. So this is THE property you are trying to maximize.

Don't forget you will need to use this epoxy primer on all the little parts too. I had to redo my landing gear because I forgot to use my EPOXY primer, I used a regular primer which was a mistake.

The other "tips" I can think of for painting:

Only start painting parts which you can finish (primer, paint, clear) all in one sitting. If you take longer than 24 hours between any of those steps, you have to "scratch" your primer or paint (depending on where you stopped) with a scotchbrite pad (or equivalent) so that the next paint step will stick. If you paint all 3 steps back to back to back, you increase the adhesion.

Where nitrile gloves when handling the airplane until you apply clear.

I didn't get convinced that I NEEDED to do a gloss clear before applying decals (wet transfer) or paint masks, but that's what I did.

Runs where the most likely for me with clear, so I had to practice alot and still got a few runs.

Matte clear is AMAZING!

Regarding the scale 3D printed pieces:

The small white piece towards the bottom of your pic next to the two long grey pieces with rivet detail, fits on the front gear strut.

The oval looking swept back pipe thingy, goes on the bottom rear of the jet and is a fuel dump pipe.

What looks like a fuel filler, if you have two, I'd say they go on the wing, if you only have one, it may go either on the Right front of the jet (just above the gun) or on the top of the get, just behind the hatch.

The other parts, I am not sure about.

I'll try to post some pics in a bit for you.
Thanks a lot Ravill for the tips. unfortunately I won't be able to redo the whole paint ... Plane was painted almost 3 years ago and if I try to remove it, I will remove all the details ...
I'm slowly correcting all the mistakes and the messy parts, it's taking time and I won't be able to get everything but as I'm planning a heavy weathering, I don't think it'll be noticeable.
I'll wait your pictures for the details. Alan sent some pictures that clealry help a lot.
Old 04-16-2020, 01:47 PM
  #243  
jimibar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ravill
My transport should keep pylons and store stabilizers free.

Jim, here is a pic of the small white piece
Thanks for the pics !
It remind me that my gear is not painted ...
So can I follow your painting instruction for the gear also ?
Old 04-16-2020, 05:19 PM
  #244  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Regarding the gear, yes! Clean all of it with gun cleaner, sand with scotch brite, EPOXY Primer (this is important) and then white, followed by a matte clear.

Are some of those other pieces pieces that glue to the aileron?

Here:

Old 04-16-2020, 05:30 PM
  #245  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Oh, and if it isn’t obvious, my very meager paint advice is from Jeremy (aka LGMgraphix) any mistakes are mine.

His sage advice saved my paint job and my A-10.
Old 04-16-2020, 07:51 PM
  #246  
ianober
My Feedback: (12)
 
ianober's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Raffy, you are truly a gluten for punishment with that scheme!!! Jesus!
Old 04-17-2020, 01:19 AM
  #247  
jimibar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 171
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Thanks again Ravill !
Looks like these pieces are going to the ailerons, correct !
Of course it's not the ind of details you would like to install after the paint is done ....
Do you have to remove the gear for painting it ?
Old 04-17-2020, 07:09 AM
  #248  
ravill
My Feedback: (11)
 
ravill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, Ca
Posts: 5,704
Received 90 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Ian! You moved! That’s why I haven’t seen you! I hope you and your family are doing well man!

Yeah, this paint job was crazy! I better LOVE it when it’s all said and done! LOL

Jimbar, look on post #195, I did not remove my gear. Make sure you scuff all the aluminum really well.
Old 04-17-2020, 04:01 PM
  #249  
Edgar Perez
My Feedback: (13)
 
Edgar Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Gurabo, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 2,404
Received 20 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Getting to the point where the plastic canopy need to be cut to glue them to the canopy frames.
There are no marks in the plastics canopy to indicate where it needs to be cut, so I guess need to eyeball it.
Any ideas or recommendations on this part of the build?
Thanks
Old 04-17-2020, 04:20 PM
  #250  
DUCMOZ
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: , WA
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Edgar Perez
Getting to the point where the plastic canopy need to be cut to glue them to the canopy frames.
There are no marks in the plastics canopy to indicate where it needs to be cut, so I guess need to eyeball it.
Any ideas or recommendations on this part of the build?
Thanks
I am sure yo know it already. I would lay it over the frame. then mark large and cut, then you can trim little bit at a time when you try to fit it on the inside. that way, there is no chance to mess it up. I hope this helps.

Behzad


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.