prop wash

No I don't think it's overkill.Thats a big wing so the extra braces would be a plus,I agree.I'll get back to you about the spars lining up later Tom

prop wash

X3,it is correct that the spars don't line up with the dihedral braces???? Now what oh well !!!!! Tom

x3heimmr

OK, it has been a while since I posted, but I’m still making progress. The wing is together and ready for sheeting. I laminated pieces of 1/8” birch ply by epoxying them to the wing one at a time. If you clamp the 1/8” ply really tight and only put on one layer at a time, it will bend and conform to the spars just fine. At the center of the wing, there are three layers of ply at the wing center rib. Before I joined the wing permanently, I set the wing up on the building table and checked the wheel alignment one last time. There is less than one degree of toe in so I left it alone. I am putting on the sheeting before I glue on the leading and trailing edge. After all the sheeting is on, I’ll sand it flush with the rubs and glue on the leading and trailing edges and sand them flush with the sheeting.

I also worked on the flaps and ailerons. They are now sheeted and ready for rough sanding. Switching to the fuse, I added some ¼ x ½ scraps left over from the fuse crutch to the former where the rear retract goes. I bent the flange at the top and bottom of the retract mount plate back so it is now a flat plate. The bolts go straight through the ¼ x ½” pieces added to the former.

The last pic shows the beginning of the engine mount box that will extend from the motor mount back to the third former.

prop wash

thanks X3,I hope you realise how much help this is.Tom

x3heimmr

Hey Tom, I'm glad this is helping someone. Feel free to put some of your own pics in here. I would like to see some. Most of what I am posting has been learned from this forum and other posts that I have looked at. I probably spend as much time researching as I do on the build. I figure it would be good to contribute something back. I am hoping that there are others watching this post for potential mistakes that I have made.

One thing I forgot to mention earlier. The engine box is 1/8 birch ply. The firewall will be 1/2" birch ply made from two pieces of 1/4" that I will glue together. Once the firewall is glued in, I want to dowel it to the sides of the box with wooden dowels. There will be 1/2" triangle balsa stock on all of the inside corners of the box. The top (bottom) of the box will be left open between the last two formers. This will provide a nice place to mount the gas tank right over the CG. The guy I bought this kit from gave me that idea. Once the box is complete, I plan to attach it to the formers with more 1/2" tri stock. More pics to come later.

x3heimmr

More pics to come in the next day or so. I have started to fabricate a servo tray and also install the pull pull cables to the tailwheel. But the main focus now is to get the motor mount box made and install the motor. I have a Q-100 with stock magnito ignition. I need recomendations here.
1. Leave it stock on magnito only.
2. Install a jump start system from CH Ignitions.
3. Install a complete electronic ignition system.
I will have to fab my own parts for the sensor mount and flywheel if I go to any aftermarket electronic ignitions. I haven't found a "drop in system" for the Q-100.
I do not know how difficult the motor will be to start by hand. It does have a compression release which makes it a lot easier to crank over. It had a spring starter at one time, but it is gone now. Please give me some feedback on this.
Thanks

x3heimmr

Here you can see the beginning of the pull pull system for the tailwheel. There will be springs in the lines at the servo horn to take up the slack when the wheel is retracted. There are also some pics of progress on the engine mount box. The gas tank will go inside the box and the air tank will go on top of it. Sometime in the near future, I will start installing the servos in the fuse. There are pics of the start on a servo tray plate. It will eventually be glued in to 1/2" tri stock glued to the sudes of the wing saddles and formers.

prop wash

X3,where did you get the idea for the engine box??I don't see anything on the plans for an engine box.Maybe I better go over them again.Tom

maddog 71

HALLELUJAH someone else has one of these monsters! I was getting ready to ask if anybody has had one of these ole girls.I got mine give to me early this fall. The guy started it a long time ago and decided it was to much.He was cleaning house and I happened to be at the right place right time! The wings are the only thing that is assembled in one piece unfortionly . Would like to had them in two halves for transport but o well fuse has not been started and all parts seem to be there. Was planning on a g-62 for power would this be enough
Any ideas would be of help may not start till next winter got a lot of other irons in the fire right now!
MADDOG

prop wash

Well Madd,X3 is doing a fine job here,just read the whole thread.I have printed all his pics so far and they are a real help.Mine was partially built also.Wing is in halves the fuse is put together but not sheeted.There are some mistakes that the pryer owner had done so I too have some other irons to do but X3 has been great with the info.When I'm ready I'll probably put a ZDZ 80 in her but thats a long way off.Tom

x3heimmr

Good to see people watching this thread. I am counting on you guys to watch for mistakes I may make. The engine box is not on the plans. I saw it on some other builds plus the guy I got the kit from has one built like this. The box is 1/8" 5 ply birch. There is 1/2" tri stock in the corners. There will be more pics as I complete the engine box.

A g-62 will fly this plane scale but there will not be any EXTRA power. I was going to put a g-62 in mine but the Q-100 I am using became available and I was able to sell my g-62 easily.

How many of you are flying gas warbirds on FM?

Who puts right thrust on their warbirds?

Thanks

x3heimmr

Ok here is a little more progress. I have been trying to work out the pull pull cables for the tail wheel. There are springs to take up the slack when the wheel is retracted. I will be moving these springs to the back where the tail wheel is. For those of you building this plane , put the springs at the back otherwise the tail wheel will not follow the steering servo movement very well. The nyrods for the rudder have also been roughed in. The first piece of 3/16” side sheeting had to be put on because of the nyrod exit location at the tail. While I was at it, I got the air lines ran to the tail wheel cylinder. At the same time, the motor box has been coming together. I made some motor mount spacers to kick the motor to 1 ½ degrees right thrust. The plan is to complete the box, add the motor mount plate and get the box epoxied into the fuse this weekend. I’ll post more next week…….

prop wash

Thanks X3.Tom

AC2

My Feedback: (34)

I'll be following this with much interest. I have mine sheeted but its on the back burner for now. Can't wait to finish some projects and get back to building my Nosen P-47.
BTW, anyone have an extra set of plans for this kit for sale?
Looking good!! [8D]

prop wash

Welcome AC2 and Madd.X3 has done a great job with his [I think he's a he] pics and info.I have mine on the back burner for now but I have copied all X3's pics for when I finish my P51.This Nosen P47 is going to be great.There are some changes that I have to make on mine[mistakes the original owner made]but X3 has made it so much easier by showing how he has done his is great.These forums are really great.Tom

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

I read this portion of your thread several times."I laminated pieces of 1/8” birch ply by epoxying them to the wing one at a time. If you clamp the 1/8” ply really tight and only put on one layer at a time, it will bend and conform to the spars just fine. At the center of the wing, there are three layers of ply at the wing center rib." It tells me that you are not only sheeting the wing with 1/8" plywood but three layers of it for a total sheeting thickness of 3/8 inch. That is an awful lot of plywood especially birch plywood. I would assume that a plane this size would get along with 3/16" balsa sheeting or maybe even 1/8". What do the plans show and what was supplied in the kit.

x3heimmr

Hey Dan,
This ply that is laminated 3 laters thick is inside the wing where the two halves are joined. The ply is making the dihedral braces. The ply joins the top and bottom spars of both wings. As you look straight down at the top of the wing, the left half wing spars do not form a straight line with the right half spars. The wing gets sheeted with a skin of 3/32 balsa. I'll be posting more pictures of this section of the wing when I start on the wing mounting blocks.
Thanks,
X3

prop wash

X3,,,Where are you??? Did you stop building???Tom

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

X3

How much right thrustis in the plans ? or is every thing 0 X 0 deg's


Cheers Bob T

x3heimmr

OK, here’s some more progress. Don’t worry, I’m not going to stop building this plane until it is done – but there may be some times when I get busy with other things and have to break for a few weeks.

I have still been working on the engine box. It is now done and installed into the fuse. It is epoxied in with tri stock on both sides of each former. I used ½” stock in front of the firewall – then 3/8” stock on all other places. The plans do not call of any right thrust or down thrust. I am building in 1 ½ deg right and no down. You can see the right thrust in the pic looking down from the top of the fuse. Compare the front of the motor mount with the firewall of the fuse. I made two spacers out of UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene.) It is what a lot of cutting boards are made of. The spacers are the white colored pieces. I made the spacers different heights to set the motor mount on 1 ½ deg to the right. The motor mount is also offset to the left so the prop shaft will come out in the center of the cowl.

You can see the Robart air tank mounted on the outside of the engine box. The gas tank is now mounted inside the engine box. I am going with a two line setup. There are many threads in the gas engine forum on setting up the lines for a gas tank. There will be a filter in the vent line to keep trash from getting in. There will be a filter between the fuel valve and the engine as well.

Next up, I have to make a major decision. Should I make the exhaust come out at the waste gate location as on the real plane or just exit straight down out of the cowl?

x3heimmr

Here are the rest of the pics. I forgot to mention that the plate on the front of the engine box is 1/2" ply that I made by laminating together two pieces of 1/4" ply. It is epoxied in place with 1/2" tri stock behind it. Then I doweled it all around with 3/6" dowel stock.

prop wash

Thanks X3,as before your pics are great.Tom

x3heimmr

Has anyone got suggestions for sheeting the fuse? I am having a rough time of it. This is the first part of the build that has not been fun to do. I am having to wet each piece to make it flexible enough not to crack. The fuse is done with 3/16 balsa down the middle and then 1/8" for the rest. The plans do not show strip planking, but that may be what I start doing......... What I have done so far looks like crap![:@]
Thanks

AC2

My Feedback: (34)

Let me see if I can get you some pics today of mine which is in the sheeted stage right now. This may shed some light for you. I did not sheet it myself but bought it this way. Some of the guys use a solution of amonia and water I beleive to make the sheeting more easy to work. Its been a while and the ole memory does not work as good as it used to.

I'll get those pics tomorrow. The plane is in storage right now and I did not make it today.

deckerv

My Feedback: (21)

My dad used amonia and water to wet the outside of the balsa, and used rubber bands to slowly bend it around the curves. As I recall though, he replaced a few sheets of balsa becuase it was rock hard, and wouldn't bend w/o snapping in two. My memory isn't as good anymore either.. that was about 18 years ago