skyflier

I just bought a new Tower Trainer 40! And I wondered if any of you more experienced guys had any tips(or tricks) for a smooth build. Thank you ahead of time for any replies.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

A tip, not a trick, is to read the build manual and study the plans. Know and understand ahead of time exactly what the instructions are asking you to do. If you don't fully understand what the next step is and why, ask somebody before you make a terrible mistake. I assume Tower trainers' manuals and plans are written and printed by the same folks who do the Great Planes stuff. They are fairly straight forward and easy to understand. Know exactly what you are doing before you pick up the glue.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

I don't think the wing design is particularly strong. I would not worry about a smooth build, but rather smooth flight.

ratshooter

I replied to your other thread on RCGroups. The wing is plenty strong. The plans recommend 30 minut epoxy and I agree. You need the extra time with the wing assembly. If I had of used 5 minute epoxy I would have been in trouble. I have several flights on mine with lots of loops and no problems.

warhwk

My Feedback: (3)

1. My one tip for building trainers with a box fuse is to cut off the rear 1/4" and run the elevator control rod straight out the back. This will help reduce flexing and any binding that can occur with bent control rods. Disregard if there are all ready plastic guide tubes built in. You can't get much easier than that!

2. +1 on 30min epoxy, especially for the wing.

3. Smear some petroleum jelly on the front side of the aileron torque rods where you do not want glue to stick. I have also used wax paper

4. Throw away the included CA hinges and replace with Radio South Blue CA hinges. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDZ44&P=ML These will never fail!

5. If the model does not appear to have right thrust built into the firewall, you can slightly angle the engine in the sandwich clamp and angle about 2 deg right. (looking from behind the plane.) Later you can fine tune the engine right thrust if needed. Such as corkscrewing while doing a loop etc...

6. Make sure the nose-wheel push-rod is toward the inside of the servo arm. You want to have the nose-wheel move only about half as much as the rudder. If the plane will taxi 360 deg in less than a 10 foot diameter, you will find the steering uncomfortably touchy during take off and landings.

7. The wire gear mains tend to squat after a few landings. If the plane starts to bounce on landing, bend the main wire gears so they are slightly lower than the front wheel. 1/4" is usually enough to tame the Kangaroo bounce.

8. Please get an experienced RC'er to go over your plane with a fine tooth comb. Have an experienced (not HIS opinion) take your plane up for it's maiden. Make sure you (and others) trust your chosen test pilot.

9. Try to use a buddy box if available with a reputable club trainer. You'll learn to fly MUCH faster this way.

10. Make sure the controls move the right way before every flight. From behind the airplane, right stick makes the right aileron go UP, Back stick makes the elevator go UP

11. Tip for flying. When the plane is coming directly toward you such as in a landing approach. The aileron stick needs to move toward the LOW wing to keep level. ***** #1 TIP****

12. Get some time on an rc flight simulator. If you can't afford one, hang out at your local hobby store and use theirs.

13. HAVE FUN!!

ratshooter

Good tips WH and I like those hinges. One other tip I have never seen anyone but me suggest is that if you are having trouble getting oriented when the plane is coming toward you turn your back to the plane and look at it over your shoulder. This makes the controls correct in your mind. Try it to see what I mean. It really works.

skyflier

Thank you all for your help. I'm good with the orientation part because I fly the Hobbyzone Super Cub S. I wondered about my CG, does it have to be exactly on the manufactures recommendation.

warhwk

My Feedback: (3)

The CG can vary a bit without much worry. Too far forward or backward can induce some undesirable flying qualities. Try to get within 1/4 inch of the specified cg if possible. Remember as the fuel is burned the cg will naturally change. You certainly don't want to start out excessively tail heavy. Your trainer should balance easily by moving the battery around as needed.

ratshooter

Skyflyier I think the CG on my model set per the instructions makes the plane too nose heavy. Especially with that silly 11oz tank they provided. It lands fast for a trainer and I run out of elevator before i can flair well. And I have a good amount of elevator set for high rates.

So I have added a couple of oz of weight to the bottom of the horizontal tail. But it has been windy ever since then and I haven't had a chance to test fly it. I am thinking about cutting a hatch in the nose so I can change the tank saddle and install an 8oz tank. Like it is I never fill it all the way full. With that FP-40 it would fly for an hour on 11oz of fuel.

skyflier

I had my maiden flight today! I have a Evolution Trainer Power System with a OS #8 Glow Plug. The engine will not run reliably at a low idle do I need a hotter plug like a #6? I was flying in the evening around 5:30 and I flew directly into the sun and my engine quit so I had to land without any power. That happened one other time so I had two dead sticks. The engine is swinging a top flite 11x6 power point propeller. Is it just a coincidence my engine quits when I fly into the sun?

ratshooter

Yes flying into the sun causes a heat inversion that is severely affecting the flux capacitor causing a low power surge killing the glow plug.

Just kidding. I have never used the evolution trainer system but have read several times the engines work better with them removed. It sounds like you are rich on the low end card adjustment. Do the fuel line pinch test. Adjust the high speed to full power with just a little rich. Then go to idle and and pinch the fuel line. The engine should very quickly speed up a small amount and die. If it speeds up and runs for a bit it is rich. If it dies very quickly it is lean. Adjust the low end accordingly.

Buy several glow plugs and experiment. Thats the best thing to do. Use fresh fuel and always buy the same brand and nitro content of fuel.

skyflier

I am using coolpower 15% nitro 17%oil. I bought a OS #6 a OS #7 and a McCoy MC-55. I also bought a Master airscrew 11x6 and a top flite 10x6. They should be here next week sometime and I will see if it will work better.

ratshooter

I had a Thunder Tiger GP-40 I bought off Ebay in like new condition I put on a SPAD coroplast model. It would flame out about one minute into every flight. I spent more on glow plugs than what I paid for the engine trying to get it to run. I was using Cool Power 10% fuel. Then I put some Power Master 10% in the tank and it ran till empty. I did it again with the same results. I flew 5 tanks of fuel through that engine without a bobble.

That was the only time I have ever had trouble with cool power fuel. So don't hesitate to try a different fuel. It might do the trick for you.

fourstar40

My Feedback: (27)

ratshooter;12218731]Yes flying into the sun causes a heat inversion that is severely affecting the flux capacitor causing a low power surge killing the glow plug.


I am at work baby sitting the building with nothing going on at the moment. I just want to thank you for making me laugh as hard as I have in a long time. It really perked me up.

skyflier

LOL, I know it was a really dumb question I just wanted to make sure that wasn't the problem.

fourstar40

My Feedback: (27)

I figured you did. I am really bored right now and that flux capacitor thing just got me.

To keep things on track, there a few guys in my club that had trouble similar to yours with the evolution engines. I wish I knew how they fixed the problem but it escapes me.

ratshooter

Glad I could make you laugh 4star40. Just remember flying into the sun didn't work so well for Icarus and Daedalus his father.

If the OP were close to me I bet we could figure out his engine problem. I was the go to guy at our little field for a long time when it came to engine problems. Most problems are simple. You just gotta know where to look.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

You fix that problem with the Evolution Trainer engine by taking the flywheel and the high speed needle stop off and throwing them in the nearest bean field. Once you have done that and it becomes possible to adjust the fuel mixture properly, it is a really good engine.

skyflier

I already did that

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

Assuming there is nothing mechanically wrong with the engine, then, the problem is probably either fuel delivery or a glow plug. More than likely, it is fuel mixture. Can you see bubbles in the line to the carburetor? May be an air leak at the back plate. Could be the clunk line. Start with the easiest to see and work toward the more hidden.

kmeyers

You simply said "evo trainer system" that is not enough info to me. What is the displacement? .40, .46 ?

Your current prop is good for stirring paint. Depending on your displacement and airframe type you choose a prop. 10x5 for a .40, 11x5 for a .46. Master airscew for surviving ground strikes or APC for performance.

The low end is also over controlled by stops that sometimes must be adjusted. I also use the pinch test for the low end only I count seconds after I pinch looking for the engine to die at "seven" seconds. less is lean, more is rich. Adjust accordingly.

TomCrump

When I read that Cool Power was being used, I started to think along these lines, too.

For the short term, I suggest that the OP run his engine a few clicks more rich. When that gallon of fuel runs out, I suggest that he change to something else. I changed from Cool Power to Omega. The difference was amazing.

Patrick R.

I agree with jolly popper, read the manual and study your plans. Build each step in your head and dry fit every thing first before gluing. I would use 1&1/2 epoxy, cure time 24 hrs. On your firewall and your wing joint or use Hysol 9462 epoxy for the strongest joints possible. Most of all have fun with your build.
Cheers,
Patrick

skyflier

I got my glow plugs today! I put in a O.S. #7 and leaned the low speed just a touch, and it runs and idles great I would like to thank you all for your help.