CARF REBEL 2m
#153
I have a few questions since this is my first Rebel.
1. The clevis they use appears to have a 3mm clevis pin. I was under the impression that aluminum pin on an aluminum would build up slop. Is everyone using this clevis's or are they upgrading to ball links?
2. What length servo arms are being used on the elevators?
3. Does this jet tend to require nose weight? I noticed from the pics that many pilots are placing the batteries right in the nose.
4. Besides fuel proofing the wood, are there any other tips or tricks I should keep an eye out for?
5. I could not find the threaded link for the elevators. Is this an oversight or something we are supposed to provide?
Thanks,
Tone
1. The clevis they use appears to have a 3mm clevis pin. I was under the impression that aluminum pin on an aluminum would build up slop. Is everyone using this clevis's or are they upgrading to ball links?
2. What length servo arms are being used on the elevators?
3. Does this jet tend to require nose weight? I noticed from the pics that many pilots are placing the batteries right in the nose.
4. Besides fuel proofing the wood, are there any other tips or tricks I should keep an eye out for?
5. I could not find the threaded link for the elevators. Is this an oversight or something we are supposed to provide?
Thanks,
Tone
#154
Tone.
#156
My Feedback: (4)
Yes, the Stab bag had no threaded rods at all. The wing bag had 4 rods, but two of the are really bent. I'm sure it was an oversight. Think I will reach out to Carf for replacements. Otherwise, the kit looks great. And is really super light. It amazing how light it is.
Tone.
Tone.
#157
Hi Tone
From the work that I have done on mine, I noticed the following
1. The servo mount openings in the stab are not exactly in the same position.
2. The slots cut in the stabs for the servo horn exits are too small as well as not being in the exact same position. So you will have to make them bigger.
3. On the rudder servo mount you will have to relieve some of the wood on the mount as the rudder servo cavity tapers and once you glue the plywood mount in the hatch will not fit.
Hope this helps.
Kind Regards
Jame
From the work that I have done on mine, I noticed the following
1. The servo mount openings in the stab are not exactly in the same position.
2. The slots cut in the stabs for the servo horn exits are too small as well as not being in the exact same position. So you will have to make them bigger.
3. On the rudder servo mount you will have to relieve some of the wood on the mount as the rudder servo cavity tapers and once you glue the plywood mount in the hatch will not fit.
Hope this helps.
Kind Regards
Jame
#158
Hi Tone
From the work that I have done on mine, I noticed the following
1. The servo mount openings in the stab are not exactly in the same position.
2. The slots cut in the stabs for the servo horn exits are too small as well as not being in the exact same position. So you will have to make them bigger.
3. On the rudder servo mount you will have to relieve some of the wood on the mount as the rudder servo cavity tapers and once you glue the plywood mount in the hatch will not fit.
Hope this helps.
Kind Regards
Jame
From the work that I have done on mine, I noticed the following
1. The servo mount openings in the stab are not exactly in the same position.
2. The slots cut in the stabs for the servo horn exits are too small as well as not being in the exact same position. So you will have to make them bigger.
3. On the rudder servo mount you will have to relieve some of the wood on the mount as the rudder servo cavity tapers and once you glue the plywood mount in the hatch will not fit.
Hope this helps.
Kind Regards
Jame
Tone
Last edited by Agrav8ed; 07-05-2020 at 06:11 PM.
#160
Was looking yesterday at the fir of the JP retracts as supplied and assembled by CARF with the kit. I think they have the struts on the wrong way with the wheel facing outwards. With this setup the wheels stand proud of the wheel well. Will have to change them around i think. Also looks like the flap servo install is going to be some fun ... not !
The following users liked this post:
paulhat (07-24-2020)
#163
Finished setting up club member Steve Hartley’s Rebel and test running the new JetCat P-130Rx ready for a test flying day soon!
His first turbine we did several runs while I coached him on operating a turbine. Four perfect runs.
His first turbine we did several runs while I coached him on operating a turbine. Four perfect runs.
The following 2 users liked this post by Dave Wilshere:
DenisFerrari (12-21-2021),
Desertlakesflying (07-26-2020)
#165
Didn’t weigh it, it’s as light as it possibly could be, nothing extra added anywhere. Yes, I was explaining to Steve he wouldn’t need full power for the majority of the flight.
#166
I thing I got my layout set up okay. I had a bit of a problem with my Electron retracts and had to send them in for service. One they are back I can mount the batteries and perform a final balancing.
Tone
Tone
Last edited by Agrav8ed; 08-01-2020 at 07:22 PM.
#168
Tone
Last edited by Agrav8ed; 08-02-2020 at 07:57 AM.
#170
My Feedback: (4)
The UF Evo with a 140, built right(light) will be 21.5lbs and will have greater than 1:1 thrust at take off, and 200mph in it's sleep. It is a sleek airframe and plenty aerobatic, but the Rebel is a slightly better jet for sport/precision aerobatics, from my experience. Even though my Classic isn't flying yet, I have many flights on my over-powered Rebel HOT(powered by an 85N turbine with a 16.5lb take-off weight, full of fuel - 13.25lbs dry), and just maidened my moderately over-powered Rebel Pro(36.75lbs dry powered by a Swiwin 220N turbine). And I have a half-dozen flights on my UF Evo with a 140N turbine.
Bottome line, if you are more into speed, get the UF. If you want decent speed and great aerobatic capability, get the Rebel.
#171
My Feedback: (28)
With a 140 it will definitely not be anywhere near as fast as the UF. If you really push it with a 140 I'm sure you will approach the 200mph mark, though. It is no slouch with a 140. Built right(light), it should be around 23lbs and will have around 1:1 thrust at take off. My buddy has one flying(and mine is on the bench being built) with a 140 and it cruises at 160ish at 3/4 throttle all day long. Like I said, push it a little and it will get near 200 for sure, but be careful - it's not meant to be a speed demon and has ZERO carbon fiber reinforcement in the fuse. I'm building mine with a 170N turbine, but I know how to use my left stick and will be extremely careful about over-speeding the jet. I want the thrust for accelerated vertical.
The UF Evo with a 140, built right(light) will be 21.5lbs and will have greater than 1:1 thrust at take off, and 200mph in it's sleep. It is a sleek airframe and plenty aerobatic, but the Rebel is a slightly better jet for sport/precision aerobatics, from my experience. Even though my Classic isn't flying yet, I have many flights on my over-powered Rebel HOT(powered by an 85N turbine with a 16.5lb take-off weight, full of fuel - 13.25lbs dry), and just maidened my moderately over-powered Rebel Pro(36.75lbs dry powered by a Swiwin 220N turbine). And I have a half-dozen flights on my UF Evo with a 140N turbine.
Bottome line, if you are more into speed, get the UF. If you want decent speed and great aerobatic capability, get the Rebel.
The UF Evo with a 140, built right(light) will be 21.5lbs and will have greater than 1:1 thrust at take off, and 200mph in it's sleep. It is a sleek airframe and plenty aerobatic, but the Rebel is a slightly better jet for sport/precision aerobatics, from my experience. Even though my Classic isn't flying yet, I have many flights on my over-powered Rebel HOT(powered by an 85N turbine with a 16.5lb take-off weight, full of fuel - 13.25lbs dry), and just maidened my moderately over-powered Rebel Pro(36.75lbs dry powered by a Swiwin 220N turbine). And I have a half-dozen flights on my UF Evo with a 140N turbine.
Bottome line, if you are more into speed, get the UF. If you want decent speed and great aerobatic capability, get the Rebel.
The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (08-05-2020)
The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (08-04-2020)
#173
My Feedback: (4)
Adequate probably not the best word to describe it. Perfect, is the better word. If I had another 140 lying around it'd go in it. But I like coming across the runway, slow with full flaps, near stall, then advance throttle, flaps up, pull vertical, and accelerate! My Rebel HOT does it perfectly with an 85n turbine, and I'm sure my Rebel classic, at 24lbs dry with a 170, will do it even better!