Welcome to Club SAITO !
http://sullivanproducts.com/product-.../control-rods/
I use the Sullivan stuff, especially the Gold N Rod for throttle duty.
Right now looking to buy or lease property for a new field;
Without the fabric!
I use the Sullivan stuff, especially the Gold N Rod for throttle duty.
Right now looking to buy or lease property for a new field;
Without the fabric!
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-17-2019 at 07:56 AM.
I have always used the cable type for throttles. No slop in them and no stretch or shrink either. Don't need reversed levers or any other hardware either with the 4 strokes. The only plane so far I have not used them on and used a solid wire is the B-25 because the throttle servo is right behind the firewall and only needs about 4" of length.
Engine pod I made for the B-25. Supports the FG-30. It is all sefl contained except for the battery. The ignition module will attach above the mount, and then a harness will connect it and the servo to the nacelle wiring.
When running YS engines, in most cases I mounted the throttle servo directly behind the firewall as well.
Short, direct and positive linkage.
Otherwise Gold N Rod WIRE cable, and likewise, no zig zag techno -wizardry.
Rube Goldberg was still a nice guy, but.......
Short, direct and positive linkage.
Otherwise Gold N Rod WIRE cable, and likewise, no zig zag techno -wizardry.
Rube Goldberg was still a nice guy, but.......
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-17-2019 at 07:57 AM.
Still have a way to go, only have one nacelle 95% done, still have to get the other side to match. Because I am modelling a specific plane that actually exists I have to match the scoop as well.
Thats the plan. 3/4 ounce cloth is already on the shelf. I have to do a couple test panels to make sure the Poly works with it first. I used .5 cloth on my Corsair with Minwax and it worked great. Hoping to do the same with the .75 ounce cloth. I have to make fiberglass servo hatches for the tail still where the rudder servos go. Still a lot of work left, and the Laser will make it easier to fabricate parts for the bomb bay mechanism, as well as the radio tray and battery mounts. As you can see by the engine pod, I like to modulalize things for easy maintenance.
If you're talking about the water based polycrylic, yes it works fine on 3/4 oz glass. Recoating should be done in about 30 min or within an hour for sure or you'll have to wait 24 hrs. and sand for tooth. It's fairly thin so applying a fast drying sanding sealer first on raw wood keeps the weight to a minimum. I've not glassed a model, just canoes.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-17-2019 at 11:28 AM.
Moderator
Getting the cam shaft out of the hosing on my FA80- I took the set screw out that holds the shaft it, but it won't budge. Is there something else I'm supposed to remove to be able to get it apart?
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Jester you could try tapping the pin with a small plastic hammer and pin punch, unless you have already. I'm a bit confused or i've missed a page here? you initially had a rather underwhelming top end rpm and it ran worse at lower rpm. Dave and i suggested the same easy fix to your timing problem, if that's what it was, and lonnie just about covered everything else. Now you are going even further and removing the cam itself from the housing. Here's a multi choice for you...
A I did what pete and dave suggested as an easy way to check the timing and it was a tooth out, fixed that then fired the old fa80 up and it now pulls max rpm with a great idle and transition.
B I did all the things lonnie suggested and boy does it run great, had a few beers to celebrate. Quite a few.
C Flew my plane with the fixed fa80 and it went like the clappers but i over did the benchracing and beers after flying so now i'm in the shed pulling the cam out just for fun
D I found a small screw on the floor so i've completely stripped the fa80 to see if there's one missing.
E I've still got two strokes and heli's in my modelling shed so sometimes i get confused plus it may be bad juju
ps mike you are whistling in the wind friend, nothing beats golden rods except maybe dave's golden staff, heard he uses that to guide the flock up the mountain top
A I did what pete and dave suggested as an easy way to check the timing and it was a tooth out, fixed that then fired the old fa80 up and it now pulls max rpm with a great idle and transition.
B I did all the things lonnie suggested and boy does it run great, had a few beers to celebrate. Quite a few.
C Flew my plane with the fixed fa80 and it went like the clappers but i over did the benchracing and beers after flying so now i'm in the shed pulling the cam out just for fun
D I found a small screw on the floor so i've completely stripped the fa80 to see if there's one missing.
E I've still got two strokes and heli's in my modelling shed so sometimes i get confused plus it may be bad juju
ps mike you are whistling in the wind friend, nothing beats golden rods except maybe dave's golden staff, heard he uses that to guide the flock up the mountain top
Heat
That timing check is auto shop 101 and just aboutas old as the four stroke engine concept.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-18-2019 at 01:49 AM.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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No real need to remove the cam from it's housing unless there is something visibly wrong with it.
Pete, the closest I've been to owning sheep is my Australian Sheep dog, his name is Nick, short for St. Nicholas, he'll be 10 years old on Thanksgiving. He's a great dog and if a cat happens to be near the center of the yard he can catch them before they get over the fence. He doesn't bite them or harm them, he just simply runs over them, it makes them awful mad. Did I say he's fast?
Pete, the closest I've been to owning sheep is my Australian Sheep dog, his name is Nick, short for St. Nicholas, he'll be 10 years old on Thanksgiving. He's a great dog and if a cat happens to be near the center of the yard he can catch them before they get over the fence. He doesn't bite them or harm them, he just simply runs over them, it makes them awful mad. Did I say he's fast?
Pete, you're a riot, always good to have a hardy laugh before work.
If you still decide to disassemble the cambox, mind the two end thrust washers that are present and easily lost.
(Sorry Lonnie, I missed your comment).
(Sorry Lonnie, I missed your comment).
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-18-2019 at 06:54 AM. Reason: (Sorry Lonnie, I missed your comment).
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I had asked because I was having trouble getting the lifter out so I could use the nyrod to set the timing. I wound up getting them out by tapping on the housing while it was upside down a few times to expose the head of the lifter an then grabbing it with pliers. I should be able to run the engine today. Before disassembling the engine, I blew into the carb and found the intake to be pretty well sealed. The valves aren't leaking either. The needle valve Orings are good too verified by blowing into the fuel line while blocking the carb opening. So hopefully this was all there was to it and I'll have a good running engine for the Spitfire and a good reason to get inebriated after flying hours are over. Thanks to all of you guy who helped.
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Ok, a Saito .80 is giving me grief. I got it in a lot of stuff from a hobbyist that I trust. It was gummy, so I disassembled it and cleaned everything up. I am fairly certain I got the timing right. I set the valves to minimum lash, and I don't think they are too tight because I have good compression.
Fuel is Omega 10%
New OS F glow plug.
I reset the needles to factory setting, and can peak the HS. I got 8400 RPM at peak,. That's lower than I expected, as my prop is in the middle of the recommended range.
The big problem is idle. At roughly 1/4 throttle, I get a 2300 rpm idle at a very rich setting. It dies if I lean it any more. If I leave the glow driver on the same throttle position will be about 4000 rpm and erratic. I can lean it more with the glow driver on and go to a lower setting, but it's erratic and dies after a few seconds.
Any thoughts?
Fuel is Omega 10%
New OS F glow plug.
I reset the needles to factory setting, and can peak the HS. I got 8400 RPM at peak,. That's lower than I expected, as my prop is in the middle of the recommended range.
The big problem is idle. At roughly 1/4 throttle, I get a 2300 rpm idle at a very rich setting. It dies if I lean it any more. If I leave the glow driver on the same throttle position will be about 4000 rpm and erratic. I can lean it more with the glow driver on and go to a lower setting, but it's erratic and dies after a few seconds.
Any thoughts?
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J, when you run it next time try a 13 x 6 and if you get 97+ it's good to go. That will tell you it's in the ball park power wise. The 12 x 8 3-b at 8,400 is not bad.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 07-18-2019 at 08:47 AM.