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Old Yesterday, 05:45 AM
  #54851  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
...................
BTW, I actually prefer the taper collet drive, but can understand how sparky fliers would like the keyed drive.
Yes, they work fine, never had one slip until I bought one particular 180. If I moved the throttle too quickly it slipped. Dave was kind enough to send me a good used prop drive and collet which stayed put for a while. Now it is slipping too. I'm seriously contemplating adapting the FG solution, at least on that particular 180 because it's destined to have CDI.
Old Yesterday, 07:32 AM
  #54852  
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Wow, seems something is a bit off-spec. The obvious common element being the crankshaft.
I recall you mentioning the problem some time ago. The FG setup may in time fail as well (?)
Has the shaft finish become glazed, the surface work hardened perhaps? That could prevent the needed bite. Is this a glow or sparky?
Old Yesterday, 07:59 AM
  #54853  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Wow, seems something is a bit off-spec. The obvious common element being the crankshaft.
I recall you mentioning the problem some time ago. The FG setup may in time fail as well (?)
Has the shaft finish become glazed, the surface work hardened perhaps? That could prevent the needed bite. Is this a glow or sparky?
It's a low time 180 that needed break in completed before conversion to CDI/Gaspoline. Was running GI on 15% nitro.

The prop drive flange spun on the collet and the collet spun on the crank. I remember when it happened I was like, "What the heck is that noise?" Took me a few seconds to realize what was happening so I shut it down.

The prop drive flange was badly gouged and galled so I pitched it. The split collet was smeared with galled aluminum so I pitched it as well. The crank had skid marks on it where the collet had spun but no indentions. There was one small line on the crank where collet metal had collected. I carefully removed it with a slip stone.

The used prop drive flange and spit collet that Dave sent me only slipped about 15, didn't spin round and round like the first one.

I believe the crank got very hot when the first one slipped, the color is darker than normal and does have a glazed appearance. Is it history or can it be reconditioned? Maybe use some 120 grit emory cloth to buff off the glazing and then create a cross hatching or swirl finish?

Last edited by Glowgeek; Yesterday at 08:18 AM.
Old Yesterday, 10:46 AM
  #54854  
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Those circumferential wear lines are very likely the problem.The glazing, hardened plateaus contribute as well. Trick is to knock them down, using primarily axial, lengthwise or very low angle helical strokes and minimal material removal. Needs to be very flat lengthwise, Maybe some work first with a smooth flat file then finish with an Arkansas stone.
The existing rings are grip killers. But they probably compromised the bore of the collet as well already. One can spoil the other as soon as it slips.
Good luck.


Maybe mask it off cleany with rubber tape and lightly sandblast (?)

Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM
  #54855  
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An Arkansas stone? Where will I find one of those? Oh yeah, my back yard!

There are no circumferential wear lines, only one axial line where the split collet dug in the crank. That was removed after the first slipping episode. The second episode left no indications of slippage on the crank.

Thanks for the tip about sandblasting. I have sand and also glass beads. Which is preferred?

Last edited by Glowgeek; Yesterday at 10:56 AM.
Old Yesterday, 11:25 AM
  #54856  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
An Arkansas stone? Where will I find one of those? Oh yeah, my back yard!

There are no circumferential wear lines, only one axial line where the split collet dug in the crank. That was removed after the first slipping episode. The second episode left no indications of slippage on the crank.

Thanks for the tip about sandblasting. I have sand and also glass beads. Which is preferred?
Probably some silica or emery grit would work best.


Yessir that Hard Arkansas is in a class of its own!
Old Yesterday, 12:11 PM
  #54857  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Probably some silica or emery grit would work best.


Yessir that Hard Arkansas is in a class of its own!

That's what she...........nevermind.
Old Yesterday, 01:27 PM
  #54858  
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Default https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Arkansas-Stones-C96.aspx

Maybe I should have just said Wa****a?
LOL, that's even worse!


"Wah-she-ta"
Was hi ta

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Arkansas-Stones-C96.aspx




Last edited by Jesse Open; Yesterday at 02:30 PM.
Old Yesterday, 03:04 PM
  #54859  
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Lonnie
Before I lost everything in the fire I played with converting several engines to CDI. If I remember right, I had a problem with an ASP 80 FS with CDI that the prop drive would slip on. I probably made the problem worse by using a way oversized prop to see how low I could get the idle. My fix was to use a very little purple Loctite on the prop drive and the collet. It solved the problem and using a puller I could still get everything apart. The purple version of Loctite is the weakest of the Loctites. I may still have some around here and could send it to you if you want to try it.
Old Yesterday, 04:02 PM
  #54860  
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Thanks for the offer, Pete. Was thinking to try Loctite 222 (purple) if reconditioning the crank surface doesn't do the trick. 222 has a shear strength of 360 psi, that may be strong enough. Thought about using Loctite 620 high temp bearing mount (3600 psi shear strength) however that may make things difficult to remove. Don't know.
Old Yesterday, 04:11 PM
  #54861  
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A little heat from a heat gun will soften up most Loctite compounds. I have encountered a few over the years. Between the heat and the overkill puller they all relented when the time came.

Last edited by Jesse Open; Yesterday at 04:40 PM.
Old Today, 02:50 AM
  #54862  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Thanks for the offer, Pete. Was thinking to try Loctite 222 (purple) if reconditioning the crank surface doesn't do the trick. 222 has a shear strength of 360 psi, that may be strong enough. Thought about using Loctite 620 high temp bearing mount (3600 psi shear strength) however that may make things difficult to remove. Don't know.
Lonnie, the 150 should arrive today, have fun.
Old Today, 03:06 AM
  #54863  
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The price difference between the Saito 62-b $299.99 and the OS 64-v $464.99 is somewhat shocking.
Old Today, 03:23 AM
  #54864  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
Lonnie, the 150 should arrive today, have fun.
Thanks, Dave. I'll CC it and get it back in the mail ASAP.
Old Today, 03:40 AM
  #54865  
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No rush, take your time.
Old Today, 04:27 AM
  #54866  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
The price difference between the Saito 62-b $299.99 and the OS 64-v $464.99 is somewhat shocking.
Must be the black valve covers!
Old Today, 05:35 AM
  #54867  
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Is it possible the OS execs are getting ready to deploy their golden parachutes? There has been little in the way of development to keep up with the competition over all, and especially lacking in the big 4 stroke gasser arena.
Old Today, 05:55 AM
  #54868  
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O.S. Is most likely very little concerned with the RC hobby at present. They are very happy with the huge money present in the drone market. Lets print another trillion for them!

I used to do wedding photography on weekends to help pay for my hobbies. After a couple years I decided to quit that. Another photographer told me not to quit, just raise my price until no one would pay it.

Last edited by Jesse Open; Today at 06:02 AM.
Old Today, 09:54 AM
  #54869  
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I trained up my daughter in photography and film developing for almost 4 years while she was in private school. She later paid off her entire masters program doing portrait, corporate and wedding photography. So proud of her for that. Shoot, we couldn't pay for that back then, the private school and bachelor's sucked us dry.
Old Today, 10:14 AM
  #54870  
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I have just purchased a mint condition FA-50 which came in a wooden crate on an engine stand. (Should there be a box inside the crate?) I am not sure the engine mount came with the engine originally hence asking all the experts!

Engine, stand and crate


"A" stamped on mounting lug

velocity stack?

I think this is a very early version as it has the hollow crankshaft pin. It also has a letter "A" stamped on the mounting lug.....(i understand this may signify a production run)
It has what I believe is called a "velocity stack" and a spare plate (without the sliding choke plate on it)
Any ideas on the age of this engine?
Old Today, 11:01 AM
  #54871  
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Beautiful engine!
Old Today, 11:42 AM
  #54872  
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Wee, see my comments on your engine on RCG, I'm Notme2 there.

The crate is really neat, looks like something that someone with basic woodworking skills put together. I have not seen a crate like that, or any other, provided by Saito. The engine test stand is a nice piece. I've seen it before but can't recall the manufacturer.

If you need any tips for prop sizes or break in techniques there's always good help available here and on RCG.
Old Today, 11:49 AM
  #54873  
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Likewise, left a comment elsewhere

As I recall that early hot dog mufflered Saito FA-50 hit the store in 1992.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374949403092?itmmeta=01HW8TJJ9YD4CQ7NMZW1P7285V&hash=item574


Last edited by Jesse Open; Today at 11:54 AM.
Old Today, 12:12 PM
  #54874  
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My 56 came with that "hotdog" shaped muffler, used. I replaced it with the cast "trash can muffler". Can't remember if it gained any peak rpm but it definitely made more tank pressure. I remember having to lean it considerably after the swap.

All three 65's I've worked on had the hotdog shaped muffler. Not sure if they were added later or came stock that way.

Last edited by Glowgeek; Today at 03:31 PM.
Old Today, 12:47 PM
  #54875  
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Found this timeline information online which seems to be close to your 1992 date Jesse. Thanks for all your comments. It is very clean internally and it looks like it has never been run.


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