CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Copy that!

Tks.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Jan
Thank you for very much for the fork.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Was looking at the Falcon 120 strut's springs and they appear to be the correct size for the X strut's.



https://images.app.goo.gl/pEJw77V4c89Y8AyVA

authomassen

Have anyone here changed a clamp in one of the wings?

One of mine broke today, probably due to cold weather, and before I think of alternative ways to secure the wings, I'd like to know if it's possible to change the clamp.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

I would place a wanted add on RCG for a X broken wing or for just the clamp, I'm sure it can be done going in from the bottom of the wing panel.

Good luck and plz post your work if you do it.

Dave Wilshere

The clamp is screwed to a plywood rib. So make sure you cut a large opening if we find a spare clamp!

Dave

authomassen

As far as I can see, one would have to open up both the top and the bottom of the wing to change the clamp. One of the three screws is
close to the top skin, between the wing rod and the wing spar. It's rather tight in that area, and not possible for me to get a good photo of it.

Anyway, I decided to do a very quick and rather dirty repair. I opted not to change the clamp.

I drilled a hole through the clamp and the wing rod. I made a piece of 3mm ply to fit on top of the clamp, and I epoxied a piece of 3mm ply inside the wing rod. I screwed a 4mm machine screw through the clamp and wing rod, and I hardened the threads the screw made in the ply in the rod with thin ca. I covered the hole in the wing with 1mm balsa, found some genuine chinacote in the spares box, and covered it all up.

The fix took me around 1 hour, it is structurally sound, but it doesn't look pretty. Good enough for my beater jet, and the repair is on the bottom of the wing, so nobody will notice.



Broken clamp.

Screws holding the clamp.

Hole drilled in the clamp.


Ply epoxied in rod, machine screw through rod and ply.

Good enough for my beater jet.

Jim Cattanach

Does any model supplier in Europe have this jet, or the XL version in stock?

Dave Wilshere

There are a few Plus kits about, doubt you will find a std size in a shop, maybe un opened second hand.

authomassen

It wasn't good enough after all, so I found some balsa filler, and spent another hour or so for a better finish.

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

just purchased a used x calibur spot from someone used, airframe only, I had a couple a few years back, this guy botched this thing all up rigging it. So needless to say I gutted it and am starting over with equipment install and what not. As I am removing the botched up trays and what not he has in it, I noticed he had wedges for the turbine mount that are adding up thrust to the turbine, if I remember right, they should have down not up trust , can someone confirm this for me please

Aussie1

Turbine should point down 5 degrees, that is, front of engine higher than the back. I had a VT80 in mine and flew perfect like that.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

I'm guessing the rail is still there...level with those...but might need raising to make a little more space under....

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, the rails are there, looks like he blocked it up for clearence as stated above, but they are wedge shape blocks with the high side of the wedge facing aft, thus giving up thrust, didn't think that was right

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

Now I have to figure out how to remove them without screwing up the rails, look like hysol on them, OMG

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Sanding drum on a 90* dremel

Dave Wilshere

Nah, sharp wood file start at the back. Whack out a big chunk and shave off the rest

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

never mind, got it, multi tool and small block plane, clean, on to the next bugger job he did.

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

hey dave, this guy recovered the booms and tail and didn't even come close to the fuse color, it's the yellow white and blue scheme, do you know what type and color was used at the factory so I can recover them, thanks. He even cut a hold in the bottom of the fuse and inverted the steering servo so it stuck out the bottom and ran the cable's to the steering tiller out side underneath, 😯 have to glass that hold now, omg

Dave Wilshere

Unfortunately it’s the factory’s own covering that does not directly match any off the shelf colour. You could contact Mike at GJC and see if they ever ordered any of the factory film as a spare.

Dave

jstras

I found that the oracover film colors are very closely resembling the original ones from ripmax.
It is visible to the naked eye if you look closely but totally unnoticable once you're a few feet away. Perhaps give it a shot ?

BikerDon

Last time I flew my Xcalibur I had several deadsticks due to "Failsafe". The last deadstick nearly ended in tears so lost confidence and so she went into mothballs.
I put that down to radio so decided to upgrade to Futaba and am now getting her ready to go again.
Turbine is a Jets-Munt VT80-BL with 12 hours on the clock.

1. What should I do with the turbine as it hasn't been run for approx 2 years?2. The air retracts don't want to play ball, think they're seized. What do I need to do to get them moving again?I'm sure there will be more questions to come as I didn't build the Xcalibur or program the original radio.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

For the turbine, just spin it by end…should rotate, then fresh fuel, fresh new battery unless the old one was maintain…..charge it and test run on a bench might not start the first time….but it will run no problems.

for the gear y’a I used BVM silicone…..move by hand quite a few time……put 100 psi and it should cycle…..may need to pull the gear to lube and function it…

Dave Wilshere

Me I just start the turbine, let it idle for 1-2minutes, then run it another 1-2 minutes just below mid throttle stick position where the turbine should be coolest, but running faster. Then run it at full power for 1minute (all approx times!) all the time listening for any roughness.
Shut it down and it it’s still quiet and smooth you should be good to go.

Gear, I would not use BVM O ring lube which swells the O rings, the gear is probably mechanically stuck. Stick some buggy shock silicon oil in the fill valve ( does not need much) pressure to around 100psi and operate valve, grab each leg and rock it, the slider should unstick and the gear slam up(down) once all three have moved cycle them multiple times.

BikerDon

Thank you Dave, Dansy too, much appreciated; I knew I had come to the right place