AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

That P-130Rx is more like a 150 isn't it?

Dave Wilshere

Yes, bit more than that. But we have throttles. Almost no full power use (maybe long verticals) take off is little more than half power, I really don’t understand people that feel they need full power to be comfortable. All the guys I coach use the throttle constantly, that way the Rebel does 8 minutes with the stock CARF tank.

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

I wasn't thinking it was a bad thing

Len Todd

Mine is done. Did six flights last week. On the maiden flight, put in two clicks of Aile, and then it was flying fine. Took a couple landing passes to get used to the K-140's residual thrust. But, made 6 good landings, greasing the last 4. When the crosswind whipped up, turned on the Mercury's gyro (20% on all surfaces) and the Rebel was locked right in. During setup, I used the Xicoy scale to balance the plane, and the Rebel was right on the money with the OEM's recommended CG setting. Probably time to peddle the E-Z Balancer? Got to do something with the fin though. It needs some sort of graphic.

I agree with Dave. Throttle management is a great idea, and some folks never get that. I flew at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle almost all the time on these 6 flights. During the last flight, I did hammer it a couple times to see what it does on verticals. I could get a lot more time than the 8 minutes I had on the timer. It was consistently landing with 1/2 to 1/3 of the fuel remaining. Looks like the K-140 is a fuel sipper, the way I fly it. But we all do have to remember the last couple inches of fuel in the bottom goes a lot faster.

The Rebel is about 10 pounds lighter than my T-One. Given that I fly alone a lot, I like that! May have just found a new "go to jet."

Dave Wilshere

Factory balance depends on fuel level when you check it. All the fuel is in front of the balance,-it has decent tail area, so the balance can go back. Landing fuel, no hatch, gear down I hook my fingers under the fuselage lip eyeballing back edge of tube and lift…
Electronic chocolate tea pot does nothing on an aeroplane like this with such a possible fuel weight shift.
As above, it copes just fine, but like the CARF Viper when I moved the balance back it just gets better!

Dave Wilshere

Successful maiden on Saturday, then Garry got flying his new toy. When I left Sunday I think he was on flight 5

Dave Wilshere

Rebel sticker done for Garry…

grolleman

Do you use the original ball links en kwiklinks from the factor?

Dave Wilshere

Yes. Best quality parts. The 20+ Rebels I’ve been involved with all use OE as supplied

grolleman

Do you use the standard servo arm or the aluminium option.

I have to wait another 20 weeks before my rebel comes.
Gathering all the stuff now.
I am going te use de x120.
I Have also the hot with de x90.
I think dat the classic is even better.
Landing a bit slower I hope.

Dave Wilshere

What brand of servo? We use HD nylon arms throughout, but it depends where you are and what you use.

Some of my guys use arms like the HD Dubro type

grolleman

I am going too use savox servo.

grolleman

Do you have these in your store?

Len Todd

The Rebel comes with clevises for one end. If you do go with them, you are almost certainly limited to thin arms. Most of the aluminum arms are too thick and you end up using Ball Ends, which may offset the linkage a bit. I had bought aluminum arms prior to getting the airframe delivered. When I saw the OEM's clevises, I ended up using the nylon arms that came with the Hytec HS5585MH servos. Also, when I previously saw the wimpy OEM nylon arms that several of our local pilots are using on some of their planes, I decided to try the Hitec Nylon arms. This was the first time I did not use aluminum arms, though. I just did NOT have enough Ball Ends in stock, and I was in a hurry. So far, ... they all do seem to be holding up.

Dave Wilshere

Don’t use the standard Savox arms, they are brittle.
Thickness of the arm is not important, it’s the material and the centre spline boss that is critical. I would use the Dubro heavy duty 25T arms.
Where are you in the World? Supplying outside of U.K. is painful thanks to our stupid previous leaders.

grolleman

Thanks for the quick support.
I am living in Holland.
Do you meen this

Dubro Super Servo Arms, 25T, 8pcs, Part 670

Brexit is indeed a thing .de most people didn't even know what they were voting for. With all the consequences that entails

Dave Wilshere

Yes, in Europe you can always use Gabriel servo arms. Really good quality

Len Todd

I use Savox metal arms on my savox servos in my T1. Have hundreds of flights on these arms.

On another note:

Last week, I installed the Unilight Sport Jet Package on the Rebel. I was relatively easy once I figured out how to wire the plane and how to adjust the controller input, etc. Typically, I wait till the maiden is done before I install anything extra, just in case, etc. However, if you are thinking about putting in nav lights, it would be better to get them in when you are doing the initial build. The Install is a bit easier, and you do not have to remove anything to get the Fuse lamp in, etc.

I set the light system up on the bench and used a servo driver to play with it to figure things out a bit. The videos online that come up with a search were in German. Not much help! There are a couple other videos that give you the gist of an install. But the real details about setting up the transmitter, etc. are lacking. But once you do it, it is fairly easy to install and figure out! Those unilights are bright!

Tip22v

I just took delivery of a CARF Rebel 2m in the Red Launch Scheme. Compared to the T1, the Rebel is much less beefy in it's construction, which explains why folks are reporting the Rebel is much lighter than the T1. I compared dimensions and discovered that the Rebel 2m is actually slightly larger than the T1 2.2m. This is because CARF labels their size (2m) as the wingspan, whereas, the T1 (2.2m) is measured as length. The Rebel is about 1/2 inch longer in length, and about 2 inches wider in wingspan over the T1. I'm going with Electron retracts and Kingtech K142g4 and hoping I can keep the AUW under 30 lbs. I have purchased a Unilight system but am a little nervous right now about grinding holes in my wings to install them I would appreciate any pictures or technical advise on installing the Unilights. Thanks! Tom

Dave Wilshere

The construction is classic design over brawn. I’ve seen T1s flutter…never a CARF.

Read back through the thread, info is there.

We have 20+ flying with JetCat P-130’s pumping out more than 150N. It’s excess power, but people here use the throttle, so 7.5-8 minute flights are normal on the CARF tank. None use after market tanks here…

Tip22v

Thanks, I have the CARF fuel tank, 7-8 min flying time works for me. I generally fly at smaller fields so throttle management is a way of life for me, I also have the big REBEL vinyl decal that I would like to place across the bottom of the wing just as you did on the purple Rebel (my decal is white) here in this thread. Did you place that as one single large decal, or did you cut letters out and place them individually? - Tom

Dave Wilshere

Don’t think the KT will do quite as long, the P-130 is super economical and you never need full power. But 7-7.5 is easily possible.

I positioned it as one, marked positions with masking tape. Then cut out each letter and placed one at a time, joining the backing papers.

Dave

Tip22v

Thanks!

Len Todd

My Rebel weighs in at slightly over 26#s Dry. My T-Ones weigh in at slightly over 34#s Dry. I run a K142G4 in the Rebel and K-160 G2 & 4 in the T-Ones. I have hundreds of flights on T-Ones and have never seen flutter. My Ultra-Flash destroyed itself when it's second stab's live hinge on the elevator failed and fluttered. I will always be nervous about CARF's live hinging. I keep a very close eye on it. But I like the way the Rebel flies, and it is a lot easier to handle on the ground, when I am by myself. Personally, I do not like the Rebel's servo mounts either. They are nowhere near the strength of the T-Ones'! I will occasionally pull them out and check them.

The nav lights on a Rebel are easy. I glued the landing lights to the Mains with Hysol. The Wing Tip lights I just cut slots in the tips for the heat sinks & lightly glued the WT lights on with goop. Fishing the wires through the wings was easy. They can go straight through w/o a lot of fishing around. I put a 2 servo One-Click connector at the wing connection. One circuit for Landing Lights and one for the Navs. I was a little disappointed that there was no taillight. But, then I am not sure one could be put up in the tip of the fin anyway. The controller appears to be a bit limiting. I was not able to figure out how to put the landing lights on the gear switch and the Navs on the light switch. On the T-One's new light controller, doing that was easy. The Unilights are very bright! No trouble seeing them in the day or evening. I would say they are about twice as bright as what comes in the T-Ones. But the T-Ones' nav lIghts are pretty bright too. For me, putting in the lights was worth the effort, especially if you like to fly late in the evening.

Skunkwrks

Good new Gentlemen, I have ordered a 2M Rebel as a stable mate for my Rebel Pro. It's going to be in the Cayman scheme with neon yellow instead of Carf traditional yellow used on many variations . It should be here in the end of April, and I know Dave is going to say I should keep the power to 150 but I'm using my JetsMunt 166 as i fly at 3400ft or 1036m, and it never fly it beyond 5/8-3/4 throttle. Using Carf tank and have a set of ER40s for gear. I should have not a problem taking off the bumpy grass field here.