Skunkwrks

I plan on doing the same with two 2800 lipos on opposite sides of the gear structure and a 2800 3S an front of the gear. This is how I set up my Rebel Pro and it worked will.
I'm running an engine about 120g heavier than a 142 of it should all balance out.
Might have to downsize the engine if I'm running at throttle stick of 1/2 ish.

Tip22v

I fly around at about 1/2 stick on my K142, I think you are going planning to use a JM 160?

Skunkwrks

With that larger Pro, I was at 1/2 to 2/3 most of the time. There are some pilots who fly the 2m at full power, only going back to 3/4 on the bottom side of a loop and decent.
I should be able to fit somewhere in this range. My idea of flying is more aerobatic maneuvers than balls to the wall all out like Randy and Patrick fly.
Will have a shorter flight time than you as I'm using the Carf 3.6liter tank, not Cmjets 4 litre. Even Jonathan has come over to the belly button group, with one arriving this week , I guess after he flew Cocos in LA a month he thought it would be a go-around plane.

acw

My Feedback: (1)

Rebel maiden went well. I now have 5 flights on it and the plane starts to feel pretty dialed in. The Rebel classic is a very straightforward "light" jet. It is very predictable and pilot friendly. I set the CG per David Wilshere's instruction and that was a great starting point. One can probably go a little more aft, especially with a gyro and I plan to explore this at some point. The CG in the manual (front of tube) is very conservative and probably yields a plane more challenging to land although I did not try. The throws in the manual are way too much in my experience but maybe they are designed for the super forward CG they recommend.

The Rebel is super neutral and easy to fly. I'm using a CMJet 4L tank and a Kingtech 140 because I fly at 3000 MSL but even then, I could have gone with a 120. Landings are super straightforward, right after base to final, throttle to idle and the plane comes in very predictably. At full speed my Rebel whistles significantly. Very easy to hear over turbine noise and kinda different.

Overall great plane. Thanks again to David and all of you for answering my questions in this thread.

Arnaud

Dave Wilshere

👍
It is vital people set things to suit themselves, we can only guide to a starting point. My set up on most models is different to how I set customers models, here it’s easy as I know each of my customers preferences, so I set their models to suit them.

Biggest thing with any Rebel is the fuel position, fuel capacity and flying styles. If you add a bigger tank as you did, it’s obvious the balance needs to go back further to allow for the greater forward mass you take off with.

Len Todd

IMO a 160 is too much for a 2-meter Rebel. I have a 160 in my T-One which is almost 10 pounds heavier and a 160 is more than enough for that plane. Residual thrust when landing a 2-meter Rebel is a necessary consideration, especially on short asphalt runways. The Rebel is a slick plane. Based on my experience a 140 is about the 2-meter Rebel's limit. Not many sites have an asphalt runway long enough to slow down a significantly overpowered jet. It can be done but it takes a little extra skill, good brakes and quick reflexes. Also, the larger motor is typically heavier resulting in more counterweight too. Also, the larger fuel tanks are unnecessary. With a K142 and a stock tank I can easily get over 8 minutes. It is typically flying at 1/2 throttle with full throttle on verticals, etc. IMO the Rebel is not built for much extra power. It is nowhere built like my Ultraflash was, etc. But when properly set up the 2-meter Rebel is a great flier. It is fun to fly and easy to land. Easy for one person to setup and handle in the pits. It has become my go to plane. By the way, I have found that Electron brakes work better than JP's.

RC Rich

I'm ready to build the 3 servo mounts and install the servos. I noticed that this person didn't use the rubber isolators with brass islets that come with the servos. I'm assuming that he wanted a more solid installation with no flex. I've never done that before. What is the consensus about that technique ? It's hard to tell, but maybe he used the rubber on the flap servos. Also, the manual suggest a small amount of silicone adhesive between the servo and underside of hatch cover to reduce movement. What do you think about that?

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

All of the jets I build I never used the rubber, since there’s no vibration in Jet…never had a problem

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

I use the rubber if the servo needs to be a little higher in the mount to properly align the linkage. As mentioned above, the vibration damping isn't needed, but does not hurt either.
We use solid mounted servos with outboard bearing supports in fast sailplanes so that the control is precise. When I started building jets I was surprised the same was not needed.

Tip22v

I have not used the rubber grommets in any of my jets for the past 10 years, no problems.

Skunkwrks

No grommets here, just use 3mm hex bolt screws that will firmly hold them down. Great servos those MKS are!

RC Rich

Thanks guys for the help. It didn't make sense at first, but now it does.

RC Rich

I read about this issue somewhere before I started building, but now I can't find the information. What is the best way to relieve the bottom aileron leading edge and or the wing trailing edge so the ailerons will go down? From the factory, the two bottom edges butt up against each other and because the ailerons are hinged on the top, will only go up, not down.

Dave Wilshere

Be very unusual​​​​​. Talk to your Rep

Skunkwrks

Looks like they forgot to taper the underside skin in the wing, allowing it to slide smoothly. Weird

BDK74

My Feedback: (5)

A strip of sand paper, paper side on aileron. Use the aileron to push it up against the inside of the wing as you sand.

Oops. Didn't quite look at the pics. They forgot to cut relief for the aileron. You could sand the wing, aileron or both and taper the inside lip of the wing.
Or contact CARF.

Dave Wilshere

You can see where the wing skin is low near the aileron servo opening, possibly from shipping compression. He has been given several options to fix now.

RC Rich

I don't see any signs of shipping compression. When I "sight it" down the length of both wings, everything is perfectly straight. The trailing edge of the wing is very tapered on the underside and the leading edge of the aileron is tapered also on top. The problem is they both butt up solid against each other. I was going to start sanding, but on the Carf owners FB page, Andreas Gietz had this to say:
Compressing the sandwich foam right over the aileron spar will solve this problem also. Apply pressure with your finger to the skin where the spar is. And then move from right to left. Instead of your finger you can use a pen, which is a bit harder and thus more effective. The compression of the foam will help that the skin of the aileron will easily slide under the skin of the wing... that's how we do it in the factory. It's the best way to make it work. Just a little more care will have to be taken in the control horn area. But once you get the idea, you'll get it to work there, too.

I ended up carefully doing what Andreas recommended with some low heat and my finger with a micro fiber towel and now it works perfectly. It was a little scary doing it because I didn't want to damage it. I'm glad it's on the underside where it's less noticeable. I've decided to not contact the Carf rep and move on with the build. I'm also not going to inquire how both wings could have left the factory that way because I'm so impressed with the fit and finish of the rest of the plane. Problem solved!

cmjets

Hi, pretty CMJETS tank for Rebel, with 5 or 6L of capacity.

BR from Spain
Carlos

RC Rich

I've read get as much full flap throw as possible and the manual says maximum deflection for full flaps, but do I possibly have too much full flap here?

Dave Wilshere

Which turbine…how much residual idle thrust? Some brands have very high idle thrust and a clean airframe with small inlets ( little natural drag) need lots of flap.

It comes down to your throttle management, if you are chop and glide, or active throttle pilot.

RC Rich

I will be installing a Swiwin 140. With my Aerofoam L-39 / Swiwin 80, I usually go to idle at the beginning of the paved runway and glide/flare for landing.

BTW Dave, thanks for all your advice and help with my newbie questions. I've gone through this entire thread and your insight based on building/flying multiple Rebel Classics has been very helpful to myself and others.

cmjets

these are for 2m Rebel !!!

Dave Wilshere

Five Rebels at the local club today, all JetCat powered, stock tank and pipe. All MacGregor servos, mix of JP and Electron gear

Rapunzeline

Looks Great.