bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Looking at it again, it might not be airex, but it is a clean, stout structure

cmjets

Hello, now in CMJETS, the new 3L kero + 1L smoke tank for Carf and Pirotti planes.

Agrav8ed

So I decided to try a Rebel. It is still being shipped but the tank and thrust tube showed up today. I noticed that the bell of the thrust tube is carbon but could not see a mounting flange in the box. Could anyone tell me how the thrust tube is mounted?
Thanks,
Tone

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

there should be one little hole....in the Carbon/pipe (just finished a Rebel Pro build)

in the box you will have a rib made of carbon and foam with a little piece of ply and a screw (I have replaced that and the screw for a hex servo screw)....that will need to be glued on the top of the aft fuselage....pipe mount to that....now I’m guessing all this but it is the way the pipe mount into the Pro and Max version....as well as the mephisto

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I believe it is the same as the HOT moreso than the Pro or Max, where the former aft of the turbine mounts has a round cutout that matches the diameter of the bell opening. Once you get the turbine perfectly centered in the fuselage (Use points of the fuselage inner skin to determine center, NOT the plywood parts they glue in, as they have proven twice for me to NOT be perfectly, equally installed - the fuselage mold was made by CNC whereas the plywood was installed by man .) you will have a little wiggle room to shim around the pipe bell as needed to get it centered. I used three screws equally spaced (same for the shims) and drilled through the carbon bell, shims and into the plywood former and used self-tapping screws to hold it in place.
I'll look at my classic in the a.m. to verify.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

DUH!!! I just made a long post about installing the pipe and forgot I posted a pic of my Rebel classic just a few posts above(post # 126). Look at the bottom pic to the left. They drilled right through the bell and into a couple plywood blocks. Simple.
I know you're a swiwin guy. What are you putting in yours? a 140 would probably be perfect. Mine's getting a 170

Agrav8ed

Thanks for the info. This is the first jet ai have seen that does not use some type of metal flange or bracket to mount the thrust tube. Thanks for the info, the manual does not state anything about mounting it.
You called it. I am putting a swiwin 140 in mine. Miami assuming that it will be enough. The Rebel should be here next week. I also ordered Electron retracts as I am not a big fan of the JP's uneven braking.
Tone

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Tell me about it on the JP brakes. I upgrade all my controllers to xicoy and I still get uneven braking, but the gyro-controlled brakes at least keep it from skidding sideways. I just finished an Ultra flash. One brake locks up almost completely and the other one hardly locks up at all. Had to drop 'the good one' down to 80% power and have brake gyro gain set at 75%.

Dave Wilshere

Have you checked the shim spacers in the wheels?

Dave Wilshere

First of two 2M Classics for my local club. P-130Rx JetCat (150+N) PB Core and a Mercury SRS

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Referring to me? No. They are brand new and were pre-installed by the CARF factory. what should I look for? more shims in one than the other?

Dave Wilshere

Yep 🙂
The almost certainly come from JP assembled. I noticed on my Joker different shims, the washers are really thin. The side that is weak you can take some out of the wheel and place under the C clip.
If you check the wheel float now de powered are both wheels the same?
I always dismantle pre assembled units to grease check etc.

Dave

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

So the uneven braking is a shim issue on JP units? Interesting
I recently removed the little magnets that pull the disk back and now noticed the one wheel drags.
Good Info.

Dave Wilshere

Bob

It’s how I sorted my and customers Joker brakes.

Agrav8ed

Are you guys using the header tank that came with the jet? Is this supposed to take the place of a UAT? What's the purpose?
thanks,
Tone

cmjets

But .... the kit include UAT ? I think not.
you need it always.

Dave Wilshere

CARF always supply parts to make your own bubble trap. It works perfectly if you can be bothered to make it up. 99% would use an after market UAT my favourite is the MAP Canada unit suitable for your size of turbine.

Dave

cmjets

3L kero + 1L smoke tank installed.
thanks to Melvin Damen for the pictures.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

thank you. Do you grease the drum? Bvm/Park-o lube?

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

It is a 100% effective and very good UAT. But I usually use intairco. If you use it, pull the foam off the pick up clunk and make sure all the holes look like enough to feed a 140. But they probably are.

Dave Wilshere

I gave mine the lightest wipe of silicon grease, just to reduce the chance of pick up.

Agrav8ed

I have a few questions since this is my first Rebel.
1. The clevis they use appears to have a 3mm clevis pin. I was under the impression that aluminum pin on an aluminum would build up slop. Is everyone using this clevis's or are they upgrading to ball links?
2. What length servo arms are being used on the elevators?
3. Does this jet tend to require nose weight? I noticed from the pics that many pilots are placing the batteries right in the nose.
4. Besides fuel proofing the wood, are there any other tips or tricks I should keep an eye out for?
5. I could not find the threaded link for the elevators. Is this an oversight or something we are supposed to provide?
Thanks,
Tone

skymaster68

My Feedback: (4)

Hey, I used the CARF hardware that came with mine, never had a problem with them in any of my carf planes, if you install the bateries up front you shouldn't need any extra lead, i placed a 2100 liffe bat on the nose and 02 2600 LIion by the nose LG... for elevators and ailerons I used 1'' arms all around and 1.5 on rudder....

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

I used the stock hardware on my hot, but am going to use aluminum arms on the classic and switch out clevis that you mention for dubro hd 4-40 ball links.
Build is straight forward and cg should be easily achieved. On my hot, I'm back of the wing tube with full uat and a little under 1/4 tank of fuel. I recommend the same for the 2M.
Carf should have provided 3mm threaded rod for all control surfaces, with the tail hardware being in its own bag.
I can't say for sure what length arms are needed for flaps but 1.5" sounds excessively long. You should use max resolution of servo throw, and with full landing flaps set, the servo arm should be such that it and the pushrod form a straight line to the flap connection point. I would think max asrm length would be 1", and you could possibly get away with 3/4".

Dave Wilshere

You just lightly grease the pins and they won’t wear and metal metal is not a worry these days-plus the grease dampens that chance

20mm is about right on elevator